조완구 Wan Goo Cho , 김은희 Eun Hee Kim

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Abstract

In this study, O/W type nano-emulsions were prepared by phospholipid-nonionic surfactant mixtures and octyl-dodecylmyristate using the phase transition low-energy emulsification method. The nano-emulsions were formed only in the very narrow area of the concentration of mixed surfactant and oil molar ratio of around 1 : 1. The particle size of the emulsions was decreased as adding the aqueous phase into the emulsions after phase inversion point unlike the emulsions formed only with nonionic surfactant. Nano-emulsion was stable at room temperature for more than a month. Thus, the nano-emulsions containing phospholipids can be widely used as a cosmetic formulations.

Key Words

nano-emulsion, phospholipid, stability, electric conductivity, Ostwald ripening

연제영 Jae Young Yeon , 신보람 Bo Ram Shin , 김타곤 Ta Gon Kim , 서정민 Jeong Min Seo , 이청희 Cheong Hee Lee , 이상길 Sang Gil Lee , 표형배 Hyeong Bae Pyo

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Abstract

In this study, O/W and W/S emulsions were prepared by combining oils having different required hydrophilic lipophilic balance (HLB) values under the diverse conditions of HLB values composed of a hydrophilic surfactant and a lipophilic surfactant and their stability was investigated. Results showed that the higher the viscosity of O/W emulsions was as the lower the HLB value of emulsifier and emulsion particle showed a tendency to be a smaller and compact and stabler in centrifugal filtration. W/S emulsions also showed a similar tendency to be a smaller and compact as HLB values of emulsifier was higher and stabler in centrifugal filtration. However, the viscosity of W/S emulsion tended to get lower in HLB conditions of all emulsifiers as the time passed. This indicated that the emulsions had an unstable feature in long-term stability. In conclusion, the results showed opposite to the known theory that O/W emulsion is proper to be applied by nonionic surfactant with a high HLB value and W/S emulsion to be applied by nonionic surfactant with a low HLB value and provide useful information for the cosmetics research and related areas.

Key Words

HLB, emulsion stability, O/W emulsion, W/S emulsion, emulsifier

유정민 Jung Min Yoo , 최세범 Se Bum Choi , 김경민 Kyung Min Kim , 김성호 Seong Ho Kim , 이청희 Chung Hee Lee , 이상길 Sang Gil Lee , 표형배 Hyeong Bae Pyo

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Abstract

Multiple emulsions, called multiphase emulsions, include water-in-oil-in-water (W/O/W) type and oil-in-water- in-oil (O/W/O) type emulsions. In cosmetic industry, they are used to stabilize active ingredients but the applicability of the multiple emulsions is limited because of low stability and difficulty of manufacturing. In this study, we investigated a two-step emulsification process for a W/O/W type emulsion. We also investigated the change of stability using different emulsifiers and oil polarity. The results suggested that polyglyceryl-10 stearate, as a main emulsifier, played an important role in the stability and the formation of the multiple emulsions.

Key Words

W/O/W multiple emulsion, two-step emulsification, Polyglyceryl-10 stearate, stability

김동명 Dong Myung Kim , 홍원기 Weon Ki Hong , 공수성 Soo Sung Kong , 이정현 Chung Hyun Lee

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Abstract

Oil-in-water nanoemulsions of astaxanthin prepared by new vesicle, glyceryl citrate/ lactate/ linoleate/ oleate, were evaluated thoroughly in terms of cosmeceutical properties such as antioxidant effect, cell viability, influence of protein related enzyme, skin penetration, skin hydration and elasticity. Antioxidant effect and cell viability of nanoemulsion of astaxanthin were evaluated by DPPH and MTT assay. Also other properties of nanoemulsions of astaxanthin were measured by proteome analysis using 2D-PAGE, confocal laser scanning microscope and in-vivo test. We were able to find that the nanoemulsion of astaxanthin is good at scavenging of radical and inhibits the degradation of dermal extracellular matrix with the down-regulation of MMPs and other proteins related to MMP expression. CLSM was adopted for observing penetration of nanoemulsion of astaxanthin and showed high effective penetration rate compared to the nanoemulsion of astaxanthin prepared by conventional lecithin. In-vivo measurement of the nanoemulsions in hydration and elasticity were conducted to 11 Korean female adults for 28 days and showed better results.

Key Words

nanoemulsion, astaxanthin, antioxidant, 2D-PAGE, confocal laser scanning microscopy

김동현 Dong Hyun Kim , 이승호 Sung Ho Lee , 오명진 Myoung Jin Oh , 최고운 Go Woon Choi , 양우철 Woo Chul Yang , 박장서 Chang Seo Park

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Abstract

Non-invasive technologies in skin research have enabled to use a live image of living skin without a biopsy or histologic processing of tissue. Confocal scanning laser microscope (CSLM) operated at a near-infrared wavelength of 830 nm allows visualization of inner structure of skin as a non-invasive manner. According to previous researches using CSLM, melanin cap and papillary ring were clearly observed in pigmented areas between stratum basale and papillary dermis. In this study, conversional analysis of CSLM digital images into numerical estimation using scanning probe image processor (SPIP) software was attempted for the first time. It is concluded that a quantification of CSLM images can pave way to expand the field of applications of CSLM.

Key Words

CSLM, melanin content, SPIP

최채만 Chae Man Choi , 황영숙 Young Sook Hwang , 박애숙 Ae Sook Park , 정삼주 Sam Ju Jung , 김현정 Hyun Jung Kim , 김정헌 Jung Hun Kim

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Abstract

This study aimed to provide the fundamental data on the field of cosmetics by comparing heavy metal concentration in terms of domestic/foreign products, types and colors. The study determined the concentrations of lead, cadmium, arsenic, chromium, antimony, nickel, copper and cobalt in cosmetics such as lipstick, lip gloss, lip balm, foundation and eye liner. From the period of January to August, 2013, 121 samples were collected from cosmetic stores distributing to the general market. The average metal concentrations were as follows; 0.663 μg/g for lead, 0.010 μg/g for cadmium, 0.056 μg/g for arsenic, 1.144 μg/g for chromium, 0.008 μg/g for antimony, 0.405 μg/g for nickel, 0.319 μg/g for copper and 0.108 μg/g for cobalt. Except for chromium, the heavy metal concentrations were significantly higher in foreign products than in domestic products (p < 0.05). Also, The mean concentrations of heavy metal were significantly different (p < 0.05) when classified by cosmetic type. The highest mean concentrations shown in lipstick were 1.430 μg/g of chromium, 0.616 μg/g of lead and 0.385 μg/g of nickel, in foundation 1.155 μg/g of lead and 1.023 μg/g of chromium. In eye liner, the highest mean concentrations were 1.424 μg/g of chromium and 0.830 μg/g of nickel. Additionally, The concentrations of heavy metal were significantly different by color (p < 0.05). Brown colored cosmetics were found to have the highest mean concentrations of chromium, nickel and copper, ivory colored cosmetics the highest mean concentrations of chromium and lead, and pink colored cosmetics the highest concentrations of lead and chromium.

Key Words

or cosmetics, heavy metal, inductively coupled plasma-optical emission spectrometer, ICP-OES

김미선 Mi-sun Kim , 홍찬영 Chan Young Hong , 이상화 Sang Hwa Lee

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Abstract

Estrogen deficiency results in a reduction of skin quality and function in postmenopausal women. Over the past decade, many studies have supported that estrogen provides anti-aging effects as a result of the ability of estrogen to prevent skin collagen decline, restore skin elasticity, and increase skin hydration in postmenopausal women skin. Due to their structural similarity with estrogen, isoflavones have been called phytoestrogens. Photoprotective effects of isoflavones are well established while their estrogenic-like activities are not fully understood in human skin. In this study, we investigated whether daidzein, an effective isoflavone, has phytoestrogenic activity and induces transcriptional change of extracellular matrix components in dermal fibroblasts. We examined the luciferase activity of daidzein and β -estradiol using transiently transfected NIH3T3-ERE cells. The estrogenic receptor-dependent transcriptional activity was increased in a dose-dependent manner when treated with daidzein, with a maximum of 2.5-fold induction at 10 μg/mL of daidzein compared with non-treated control. In addition, daidzein significantly in creased the expressions of collagen type I, collagen type IV, elastin, and fibrillin-1 in human dermal fibroblasts. By comparing with the effects of β -estradiol through out all the experiments, we confirmed that daidzein had estrogenic activity and function in fibroblasts. These results suggest that daidzein-based application, having both photoprotective and phytoestrogenic effects, may be a powerful approach for skin anti-aging of postmenopausal women.

Key Words

daidzein, estrogenic activity, extracellular matrix, postmenopausal women

임준환 Jun Hwan Yim , 장문식 Moon Sik Jang , 정욱순 Uk Sun Jung , 문미연 Mi Yeon Moon , 이하연 Ha Youn Lee , 김영훈 Young Hoon Kim , 이기용 Gi Yong Lee , 이남호 Nam Ho Lee

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Abstract

In order to discover ingredients for wrinkle-care cosmetics, we prepared 70% ethanol extract from Gynostemma pentaphyllum and examined its activity on collagen synthesis using fibroblast HDFn cells. The G. pentaphyllum extract induced the production of type I procollagen in a dose-dependent manner without showing cell toxicity. The active constituents were isolated from the extract by solvent fractionation and chromatographic purification procedures. NMR data and literature studies led to determine the two isolated compounds as the flavonoid glycosides such as ombuine 3-O-rutinoside (1) and quercetin 3-O-rutinoside (2). The activity screening tests showed that the isolates 1 and 2 induced the production of type I procollagen in a dose-dependent manner. These results suggested that G. pentaphyllum extract containing the flavonoids 1 and 2 could be useful as an active ingredient for wrinkle-care cosmetics.

Key Words

Gynostemma pentaphyllum, anti-wrinkle, fibroblast cell, collagen synthesis activation, flavonoids

오성화 Seong-hwa Oh , 최수연 Soo-yeon Choi , 이누림 Nu Rim Lee , 이정노 Jung No Lee , 김동석 Dong-seok Kim , 이상화 Sang-hwa Lee , 박성민 Sung-min Park

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Abstract

Red ginseng (RG) contains specific ginsenosides (Rg2, Rg3) which show various pharmacological effects and absorption rate in the body better than panax ginseng. Therefore many people have been used it for health for a long time. Furthermore, many researchers have been studying its biological activities for a long times because fermentation generates lots of beneficial small molecules good for health. In this study, we fermented red ginseng with mycelium of Leatiporus sulphures var. miniatus for 7 days. As a result, we found that three ginsenosides Rg1, Re and Rb2 were decreased from 0.24, 0.25, 0.16 mg/g to 0.12, 0.1, 0.03 mg/g respectively HPLC analysis. In addition, we studied biological activities of fermented red ginseng (FRG) about skin ageing such as anti-inflammation, cell migration, anti-oxidation, collagen type 1 synthesis, and MMP-1 inhibition activities. As a result, FRG were shown higher anti-inflammatory and cell migration promoting activities than RG. FRG inhibited production of nitric oxide (NO) and mRNA expression of inducible nitric oxide synthase (iNOS) and decreased interleukin (IL)-6 induced by LPS stimulation in RAW 264.7 cells. In conclusion, this study suggest that FRG could be a potential source as a new natural anti-inflammatory agent.

Key Words

Laetiporus sulphureus var. miniatus, anti-inflammatory, saponin, β-glucan, Fermented red ginseng

강정욱 Jung Wook Kang , 배준태 Jun Tae Bae , 연제영 Jae Young Yeon , 김영호 Young Ho Kim , 김진화 Jin Hwa Kim , 이근수 Geun Soo Lee , 표형배 Hyeong Bae Pyo

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Abstract

2,3,5-Triphenyltetrazolium chloride (TTC) is used as a redox indicator in culture media. It is colorless in the oxidized form and is reduced to formazan, an insoluble pigment, by dehydrogenases in actively growing microbial cells. The aim of this study was to assess by microbial test of the pathogenic microorganisms using TTC reduction. The pathogenic microorganisms were reduced in medium by dehydrogenase to produce insoluble red formazan. We observed that the optimization method of TTC allowed more than 12 h incubation in 0.04% concentration. Also, the growth of microorganisms with media was increased formazan production. We confirmed that microorganisms were quickly observed to grow colonies cultured red color without affecting the growth of microorganisms. It is suggested that the microbial test using TTC can provide better and quicker test method in cosmetics development.

Key Words

2,3,5-triphenyltetrazolium chloride, microorganism, microbial test, 1,3,5,-triphenylformazan

장하나 Ha Na Jang , 박수남 Soo Nam Park

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Abstract

In this study, the antimicrobial activity of niaouli leaf extracts was evaluated against skin flora. The skin flora used for experiments were three gram-positive bacteria such as Bacillus subtilis (B. subtilis), Staphylococcus aureus (S. aureus), Propionibacterium acnes (P. acnes), and two gram-negative, Escherichia coli (E. coli), Pseudomonas aeruginosa( P. aeruginosa) , and the yeast, Plasmodium ovale (P. ovale). The bioassay applied for determining the antimicrobial effects of niouli leaf extracts or fraction included the disc diffusion assay and broth dilution assay. Minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) values of 50% ethanol extract on B. subtilis, S. aureus, P. acnes, E. coli and P. aeruginosa were 0.25%, 0.50%, 1.00%, 0.13% and 0.25% respectively and the MIC values of water fraction were 0.25%, 0.25%, 4,00%, 0.25% and 0.25%. P. ovale did not show antimicrobial activities. The MIC values of methyl paraben used as positive control indicated 0.25%, 0.25%, 0.25%, 0.13% and 0.50%. Also, Minimum bactericidal concentration (MBC) values of 50% ethanol extract were 2.00%, 2.00%, 1.00%, 0.50% and 2.00% individually and the MBC values of water fraction were 0.50%, 0.25%, 4.00%, 0.50% and 1.00%. The MBC values of methyl paraben indicated 1.00%, 0.500%, 0.50%, 0.50% and 1.00%. These results showed that water fraction was as good as methyl paraben except for P. acnes. The 50% ethanol extract also showed activity similar with it. Thus, it is concluded that the 50% ethanol extract/fraction of niaouli could be applicable to cosmetics as a natural preservatives effective in antimicrobial activity against skin flora.

Key Words

Melaleuca quinquenervia, niaouli, antimicrobial activity, skin flora